
Are you looking for where to eat in Florence on Christmas and/or New Year’s? Fear not, traveling food lovers! Curious Appetite did all the dirty work of calling around Florence.
If you are interested in small-group culinary tours Christmas Eve & Day, consider our Festive Food Lover’s Tour on Christmas Eve or our Progressive Dining Crawl on Christmas Day! Tickets sell out quick, book your spot asap.
And on New Year’s Eve we will be doing a Aperitivo Food & Wine Tour in Florence- examples and details of each pop-up event are HERE
The pickings for what’s open in Florence on Christmas day are tight & clean including Persian kebab, traditional spots for Florentine fare & steak and pasta & pizza bars. I first compiled this list in 2016 and keep it updated for your dining delight.
PLEASE NOTE: I’ve updated for 2024, but please bear with me in that it might read a little chaotic and not as well organized as I’d like but the tasty intel (i.e. straight up addresses) is there.
I’d be happy to provide a quick hand-picked list if you shoot me an e-mail (I am not very good at responding to DMs on IG) and especially if you show your appreciation by gifting me a coffee on VenMo 😉 Happy Holidays!
Florence is less of a ghost town during the holiday season than in August and there are some valid places open, serving up quality food. Plus, my specialty culinary tours are still going on before & after Christmas Day thanks to my excellent team of experts- so in case you’d like a moveable feast during your stay- check out Curious Appetite’s food tour options, too.
My advice is to plan to visit one of these restaurants during lunch if you can, as Italian Christmas food-wise is a lunch affair. I would call and reserve asap- if you’re like me, you probably don’t make reservations even 3 days in advance but I would suggest calling and snagging a table pronto.
If you’d like more elaborate intel to curate personalized picks for where to eat in Florence, consider supporting my work with booking a travel consultation or booking a tour. If you can’t swing paying for anything, you can still support by signing up for my free newsletter and sharing the posts you enjoy from my blog on social media (tagging @curiousappetite)!
Where to Eat in Florence on Christmas and New Year’s (updated)
Ground rules: Always call to confirm and book in advance. Don’t just show up. Be nice. Be prepared most will have a fixed menu situation so you will eat what is presented to you. I beg you to not expect the food to be the same as it is back home or what you expect Italian food during the holidays to be. Please leave your inner picky child at home and order in. And for the love of Goddess- do not be one of these Burger King people who thinks you can have the temperature of the Florentine steak your way.
Club Culinario Toscano da Osvaldo- I love this place so much that it’s worth keeping on the maybe list. I’ve listed Club Culinario now in several guides so I won’t bore you with the details, but know I love everything they are and do. Italian soul food at its best, only for the adventurous and curious. Not for those who want safe Italian pizza and pasta drenched in tomato sauce. Think braised & stewed game meats, bitter greens tossed with new oil and chili, tortelli (big ravioli) filled with potato and slathered in wild boar ragu. Great wines. Address: (Near Santa Croce, off Via de’ Benci) Piazza dei Peruzzi, 3R, Phone: +39 055 217919 website
Il Guscio- Open Christmas Day LUNCH ONLY I love Il Guscio and it’s a gem. Think gourmet refined takes on Tuscan cuisine (ricotta gnudi with porcini or sliced steak with crispy rosemary & a balsamic reduction, etc) but with a cosy, traditional vibe and hearty portions but not greasy spoon in quality, if that makes sense. It’s spot on food with one of the most interesting wine lists in town. The wines are pretty worthwhile. Address: Via dell’Orto, 49a, Phone: +39 055 224421 website
Culinaria Bistro- Open through Befana! Craving gourmet takes on seasonal specialties? Head to Piazza Tasso for this little gem. They source local quality ingredients (Tuscan olive oil, grain, wine, cheeses, meats, produce, etc) from tiny sustainable producers and transform them into curated, manicured versions of the rustic originals with natural wines to match: think herbed ricotta stuffed zucchini flowers, burrata spiked tartare, meat & cheese boards, ‘nduja stewed calamari, etc. Intimate artsy vibe inside. Address: Piazza Torquato Tasso, 13R ph: 055 229 494
Trattoria Giovanni- OPEN BOTH XMAS EVE AND XMAS DAY. Nice, sleek trattoria in the Oltrarno doing quality, slightly modern, lighter versions of normally heavy Tuscan fare. Great Tuscan pasta selection (thick pici and wide pappardelle) and hearty portions of meat (wild boar, roasted pork, steak, etc) and offal-based mains (lingua, tripe, etc).
Trattoria Cesarino- XMAS EVE, XMAS DAY (I reviewed this spot HERE and it’s one of my go-tos) Do not miss their fried ficatole
Trattoria 4 Leoni- One of Florence’s most popular trattorias with plenty of dining space will be open and doing a fixed menu. Simple and sweet trattoria with classic food known most for their ravioli with pear and pecorino. Very characteristic but not overwhelmingly charming, a great spot on the other side of the river in Piazza della Passera for a no-frills, homestyle meal.
Osteria dell’Enoteca- Steak focused gourmet osteria with a super curated wine selection. Open December 26th and NYE ONLY. This group also has a small collection including a sister restaurant in the Oltrarno where there’s more of a comfort food focus vs steak. They are the same people from Pitti Gola and they are all very good about posting holiday schedules on their social media pages so check there for last minute changes!
Trattoria Angiolino and Trattoria 13 Gobbi- Open Xmas & New Year’s (eve and days) Both quirky old school Tuscan trattorias are run by the same ownership, but to me completely different vibes and cuisine. I much prefer Angiolino on Via Santo Spirito but since it’s a holiday I thought to list their second location. Angiolino has an old-world kitschy Tuscan decor and atmosphere, service jovial and food dependable for greasy-spoon that’s not too greasy Tuscan food, I’m a particular fan of their meats and mains. Address: (Angiolino) Via di Santo Spirito, 36R Phone: +39 055 239 8976 (13 Gobbi) Address: Via del Porcellana, 9R Phone: +39 055 284015 website
Less Traditional Tuscan, more trendy contemporary
T’Amero Pasta Bar + Pizzeria- OPEN XMAS EVE, NEW YEAR’S EVE/DAY If you’re looking for something less elaborate and more pasta based, hit up casual, young “hip” T’Amero. They make all their pasta fresh in house, practically right in front of you. A great aperitivo spot, too! Address: Piazza Santo Spirito, 11r Phone: +39 055 282596 website
Il Locale- Open at dinner every day! Swank bar on the 50’s Best list and restaurant that makes you feel like you’re dining in a both a museum, New York bar near Madison Square Park and a Renaissance palace as you dine under frescoes. The cuisine here is elegant and revisited, definitely a pick for fine dining lovers. The production Locale puts on (welcome punch, novel presentation and well-balanced drinks, snacks) is worth every penny. Address: Via delle Seggiole, 12/R Phone: +39 055 906 7188 website
They also are the same owners of Cestello Ristoclub who specialize in a fancy modern seafood dining experience on the Oltrarno- check it out!
For more pizza, Don Fefe is a gourmet pizzeria on the Lungarno in a more residential area of Florence and they will be open XMAS EVE ONLY, they have unique flour doughs like kamut and natural rising, and tasty toppings like burrata, spicy ‘nduja and Tuscan black truffles. Address: Lungarno Colombo 8R, 50132 Firenze FI, Italy IG
I’m nearly sure that most hotel restaurants will be open, I did a round-up of great hotel eateries on Vogue so you may want to give them a call too and see if you can get a table. http://www.vogue.com/13482348/best-food-in-florence-guide-hotel-restaurants/
More places I’ve found open, not necessarily places that would be my first choice but they are open and the goal is to provide decent options
International Food! Persian Kebab, Japanese Ramen and Georgian Dumplings? Yes!
Ristorante Tehran- XMAS EVE & NEW YEAR’S EVE ONLY. Located a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, Tehran does key dishes from the Persian culinary repertoire extremely well. They will only be open by reservation so I’d suggest snagging a table soon as it’s a small, soulful nook which fills up quick. I must note again I’m half Iranian and I love this place so much, Persian food is so interesting and accented with pistachios, rose and saffron. Not to mention succulent grilled meats like beef koobideh or distinctly flavored stews like pomegranate molasses & walnut marinated chicken fesenjan or herby greens & lamb ghormeh sabzi. Address: Via dei Cerchi, 25r, Phone: +39 055 094 5695 website
Ararat- Restaurant & Wine Bar- XMAS EVE ONLY. Another restaurant with Persian intersection, Ararat serves Georgian & Armenian specialties. The Persian culinary repertoire spans several centuries and influenced territories which were once under various Iranian empires, like Georgia and Armenia. While you won’t find Iranian saffron rice or stews, you’ll find grilled kebabs & flatbreads reminiscent of Iranian food but also unique specialties like Georgian dumplings khinkali stuffed with mushrooms or flavorful ground meat, cured spiced meats and Armenian flatbreads spread with tomato & meat fillings.
I went here for Thanksgiving and I did not regret the decision. It’s a pleasant gem and I highly recommend it for a unique change from traditional Tuscan. Please try the Georgian wine here- while the selection is modest, Georgia is considered the birthplace of wine and if anything, you should match gastronomic identities and ditch the Tuscan Chianti. Address: Borgo la Croce, 32/r, Phone: +39 375 515 3626 website
Koto Ramen- XMAS EVE (lunch only), XMAS DAY (dinner only) NEW YEAR’S EVE & DAY (dinner only) As if Florence’s international food offerings weren’t getting extensive enough considering the tiny city, we now have a choice for getting quality bowls of Ramen. Before it was just Banki near the station but now you can get solid fare at Koto Ramen in Santa Croce. At night they have a few ramen bowls to pick from (sesame pesto, miso, duck, funghi, etc) along with sides like gyoza, japanese squash marinated in rice vinegar & sake, paprika edamame etc. Address: Via Giuseppe Verdi, 42r, Phone: +39 055 247 9477 website
If you have heard of a great place open (that isn’t La Giostra, aka nothing special touristic restaurants) please do let me know by leaving a comment and I will add it!
These are other names I called up that will be open but I don’t have time to write up complete descriptions. This blog runs completely free (no ads, patreon, etc) so hopefully you can trust the names and let your own googling handle the rest.
More restaurants that are open during the holidays, perhaps not necessarily on Christmas Day or New Year’s but the day before or after sort of thing:
Cibreo– Legendary Tuscan dining empire founded by the late Fabio Picchi. XMAS EVE ONLY
Pizzeria La Luna- Neighborhood pizzeria with an emphasis on gluten-free plus a little something on the menu for everyone. Open all holidays
Pescepane– Bright cozy fish eatery in Sant’Ambrogio that isn’t super elaborate but very well-made. XMAS EVE AT LUNCH & DINNER, NEW YEAR’S EVE AT LUNCH
Coquinarius- Fresh pastas, boutique wines, salads, hearty wine bistro fare (i.e. wine sauced guanciale and mashed potatoes) near the Duomo. XMAS EVE & NEW YEAR’S DAY ONLY
Osteria delle Tre Panche- Truffle lover’s paradise off the Ponte Vecchio in Hotel Hermitage, NEW YEAR’S DAY ONLY
Da Que’ Ganzi- Haven’t been, but the menu is very traditional, seems like it has decent kitschy vibes and gets points for being in the Sant’Ambrogio area. XMAS EVE & NEW YEAR’S DAY ONLY
Aroma- High-end yet humble & cozy seafood restaurant executed with extreme care, detail and technique. Xmas eve open, Xmas day open for dinner and New Year’s Eve with a fixed menu
Il Magazzino – Open only the 31st (NYE) and they aremore than trippa, I promise! They have something for everyone. I wrote about them here on Vice (RIP Vice:(
Marina di Santo Spirito- Another occassion-worthy seafood restaurant gem in the Oltrarno. XMAS EVE ONLY
Hortus Pizzeria- Haute pizza. NEW YEAR’S EVE ONLY
Buca Mario- An icon to Florence’s historical restaurant cannon. XMAS EVE & NEW YEAR’S DAY ONLY
Cantinetta Antinori- Exclusive wine bar restaurant owned by the Antinori family- exceptional service, reliable wines and curated local cuisine. XMAS EVE ONLY
Konnubio- Fantastic creative dining guided in part by respected chef Beatrice Segoni. Has atmosphere for romantic occassions, with a quaffable cocktail and wine menu to match. OPEN XMAS EVE/DAY & NEW YEAR’S EVE (lunch only) and NY DAY (lunch and dinner)
Additional options I don’t have time to give descriptions to so please forgive inconsistent format but I approve these restaurants. Check out their Google maps listing and menu to decide if they fit your appetite:
Il Vecchio e Il Mare Pizzeria – 24th open, 25th closed, 31st open, 1st Jan closed
Gune’ – 24th open, 25th closed, 31st open only by booking, 1st closed
Cuculia – 24th open, 25th closed
Tiratissima Pizza – 24th open, 25th closed, 31st closed. 1st open
Golden View – open always (24-25-31-1)
Gucci Osteria – 24th open, 25th closed, 31st and 1st open
L’Ortone – 24th open, 25th closed, 31st open (free spots only for lunch), 1st open
Signorvino – 24th and 31st open until 8pm, 25th and 1st closed
Cinghiale Bianco – 24th and 25th closed, 31st and 1st open (both lunch and dinner)
Momoyama -25th, 31st and 1st Jan open, closed only for the evening of 24th
Regina Bistecca – 24th open, 25th closed, 31st open, 1st closed
In your holiday eating trust,
Curious Appetite
Curious about taking a food tour in Florence during the holidays or visiting this winter? Curious Appetite Gourmet Tours still go on, led by a small-curated team of culinary wine experts (food historians, sommeliers, cooking class instructors, etc).
At the holidays we’ll be doing: A Christmas Eve Festive Food Lover’s Tour, Christmas Day Progressive Dining Crawl and a New Year’s Eve Aperitivo Tour- these pop-up tours are priced for the occasion and sell-out quick- book today!
Info on tours & booking tickets online: http://curiousappetitetravel.com/food-and-drink-tours-in-florence/
Barbara
December 11, 2018 at 1:47 am (8 years ago)Ciao Coral sono curiosa di provare i ristoranti international che proponi, mi piacerebbe suggerirti anche il piccolo ristorante di Emilio e Miyako ,Ramen girl by Enoteca Luce,un locale inaspettato nella periferia di Firenze che merita a mio avviso un salto! Il”Champon” variante meno conosciuta di ramen é qualcosa di eccezionale,non si trova purtroppo tutti i giorni ma tutto è delicious belive me ! Altro posto fuori dalle solite zone ma uno dei miei preferiti in assoluto è l’angolo del mare ,se ti piace il pesce questo é un must e Carmelo un amico gentilissimo solo che é piccolissimo il locale e dunque super difficile prenotare. Ti ho dato due chicche da fiorentini buongustai , hope you will enjoy, peace and love!