Pasta in Florence tomato pappa al pomodoro
All things summer tomatoes at Osteria de’ Pazzi

(updated Aug 2025)

Notes for 2025, this is still a delicious guide if I may say but dates in which restaurants close may change on a dime. Call ahead! We are offering our Progressive Dining Crawl during select dates in August as well- this would be an excellent way to save the headache of finding places open for at least one evening of dining while in Florence!

The best times to call restaurants to book are Tuesday-Saturdays and around 12-1pm or 7pm-8pm right when they open or a little bit before if you want to make sure someone picks up. I wouldn’t relying on booking online but instead messaging on Instagram if they have a page. Good luck and happy eating- Coral 

This post (originally written in 2017, I believe!?) is updated to be your guide to eating and drinking well in Florence during August (specifically, for one of Italy’s most important national holidays, Ferragosto, the 15th of August (Assumption day) with the hopes someone will find it useful. If you know the Ferragosto cultural song and dance, feel free to scroll to the listicle juice.

The Ferragosto August 15th holiday is similar to the Christmas effect in terms of navigating closures and what to do in the city. The listings I’ve handpicked are restaurants mostly in the historical center because that is where I live and I don’t have a car/get around by bike.

In the center of Florence in August, you could probably never tell the city shuts down. The famous cultural sites will be open, lines still long and corporate/big brand shops open along the populated boulevards like Via dei Calzaiuoli. The places who shut their doors are really the restaurants, many bakeries and independently owned shops not smack dab in the historical center and its iconic squares.

Reservations are essential for a place like Florence, at least for finding the worthiest calories. Yes, you could probably waltz in somewhere “following your gut” but it is very easy to get catfished for bad or mediocre food in Florence. Even if you think it looks like some hidden gem only you discovered. Trust me.

Unless you don’t care deeply about what you eat and are easy going about food outings (I have friends like that, I don’t know how they sleep at night) then yeah do that. But if you eat like you give a damn, and get upset over mediocre meals (which should cause you to loose sleep at night) then you’ll need to research and book in advance.

Non Sai- Florence’s cocktail and snack bar newcomer along the Arno

Tips for making reservations!

The best days to call to make reservations are at least 5 days in advance and don’t try to call between services. Avoid calling on Sundays/Mondays as these are common closure days. Usually Tuesdays-Saturdays are the best days to call. Some places also take Tuesdays/Wednesdays off. I think the best times to call for reservations are right before they are set to open or right when they are about to end service. Calls during prep or in peak service hours might not be answered or met with stressful short replies.

Don’t rely on e-mail reservations or online booking platforms. I am super old school when it comes to this in Italy. I book restaurants and taxis by speaking to a human on the phone. I do not trust those apps to be reliable in a country with people who have such a flexible relationship with time and efficiency. But! Sometimes reserving via DM on IG works!!!

Even if a restaurant is normally closed on a Monday, knowing Ferragosto will be a popular day for those in town to capitalize on- some are still deciding whether or not to be open. In the hours spent making phone calls myself, a few have said “we’re still deciding. but probably-maybe-I don’t know we’ll be open on Ferragosto.” Helpful, right? ‍

Pasta tasting from our Progressive Dining Crawl
Taken on one of our food tours– book for a safe bet to eat well!

This is a bit typical of Italian culture (i.e. the flexible relationship with time and efficiency) I appreciate. Generally speaking, they play things by ear. If they feel the juice isn’t worth the squeeze, they’ll take the day off. Americans (or Anglo-Saxon culture in general) are accustomed to establishments being open even on holidays including their eves.

If you chose to be or ended up in Florence for August and during Ferragosto- plan to be flexible and make some phone calls yourself to double check when reserving tables and activities.

Rest assured, everyone here on this list/article “listicle” (in no particular order) is doing food and drink in the city extremely well. I know taste is subjective, and everyone is an authority these days, but I hope you trust my POV as a certified sommelier, as someone who literally writes about food and does food tours for a living.

Apologies in advance for not marking closure days- I have trust issues with restaurants in Florence since they sometimes can be unreliable in committing to vacation days. In past years of updating this guide, I have spent hours calling around and asking for their summer holiday break closures only for some to backtrack. Since this blog is free, I had to draw a line.

But the bigger picture is more important to me, and that is getting you the names that serve the worthiest calories. If you are looking for a meal on Ferragosto (August 15th) try hacking it by finding places open on Sundays/Mondays. Those places tend (sometimes!) to be open year-round. Call the places or message them on IG to reserve. Links and notes all in this post!

If there is something I have missed or needs correction, contact me in lieu of a stage 9 meltdown.

if you’re in town during August, I’d encourage you to sign up for one of these culinary food tours in Florence  where we hit up the best spots open during the month. I’d suggest either our Progressive Dinner Crawl or Aperitivo Tour as the best bets.

If not this August, then bookmark for whenever you can visit- they make for good meals year-round. As well as top restaurants for eating on a Sunday or Monday in Florence in this post.

from our progressive dining crawl- you coming?

Here’s where to eat and drink well in Florence during the month of August:

For traditional Tuscan homestyle cuisine (please note: the more historic & iconic eateries will probably be closed since they are usually family-run and have been around long enough)

Vini e Vecchi Sapori- (description riffed from my essential 38 on Eater) A family-run stone’s throw from the Uffizi Gallery makes its intentions clear on the handwritten menu outside: no pizza, no ice, no cappuccino, and no steak. This osteria serves traditional Tuscan food, and is known for its pappardelle in duck ragu, fried meat bracciole rifatta dressed in richly flavored tomato and herbs, fragrant saffron pasta tossed with zucchini flowers and a touch of cream, and meat-based mains like tomato-stewed cod and rolled, stuffed pork. This soulful Florentine institution is popular- so make sure to book in advance! Address: Via Dei Magazzini 3/5/7R ph: 055 293045. I love them so much.

Club Culinario da Osvaldo-  This is one of my favored restaurants in Florence, also in several listicles I have published online and often mentioned on my social media pages. Everything on this menu’ is worth eating, desserts are also exceptional. Address: Piazza dei Peruzzi, 3/r, 50122 (Santa Croce area)

I’Raddi di Santo Spirito- Affordable no-frills comfort food trattoria albeit under a confusing “Osteria” neon sign (read up here to know the difference between Trattoria-Osteria-Ristorante). They have great fried starters like zucchini flowers and coccoli, intentionally sourced steaks and meat dishes, and glistening oven baked potatoes with crispy rosemary. (Oltrarno) 

Acquacotta- This restaurant is on a tiny street on the way to Sant’Ambrogio and is hidden by construction but is a sweet gem for traditional food. It’s named after a famous Tuscan soup “acquacotta” from the Maremma area of onion, tomato, olive oil, stale bread and an egg atop. Here there’s lots of thoughtful simple Tuscan fare. Not mind blowing but charming and local. Via dei Pilastri, 51/R (near Sant’Ambrogio)

Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino- Unclear when they’d take a couple days off so call in advance. This is the city’s offal osteria. I wrote a profile about them on Vice Munchies here which I believe has aged well. Address: Piazza della Passera, 2 (Oltrarno)

Did I mention Curious Appetite’s Progressive Dining Crawl? 4 eateries in one evening with all the food and wine explained by an expert guide taking you around like your bestie in the know. Just sayin.’

Onions in a parmigiano sauce

Antico Ristoro di Cambi- One of the best greasy spoon eats in town for meatballs in red sauce, pici pasta plus steak and sides. The onions might be a strange photo to put in this post but trust me they are umami-licious. It’s a stroke of luck these folks are open in August. Address: Address: Via Sant’Onofrio, 1R

I’Brindellone- For locally-loved, cheap trattoria thrills you can’t get any more salt of the earth than this. A go-to for staple Tuscan classics, bistecca alla fiorentina and homestyle pastas designed to appease every wallet (and most palates) in your group. You must make a reservation in advance. Call in advance as they are one of those places who are unclear. Address: Piazza Piattellina,10 Ph: 055 217879 (Oltrarno)

Trattoria Cesarino in Sant’Ambrogio is open too for Lunch and Dinner (full review here). When I called they were like “we never close!” So I think you can take them on their word!

Trattoria da Rocco- Inside the Sant’Ambrogio market and famed for dirt cheap family-style comfort food. Read their review on my Eater 38 guide. 

Osteria Antica Mescita- Traditional Tuscan conveniently located in Piazza San Niccolo, an ideal lunch or dinner spot near Piazzale Michelangelo and Forte Belvedere. Simple Tuscan fare like bruschetta, Bistecca alla Fiorentina & potatoes, pasta & wild boar ragu, etc in a not over-the-top kitsch Florentine woodsy/straw and hanging prosciutto e fiaschi decor. (Lunch and dinner) Address: Via di S. Niccolò, 60 r ph: 055 234 2836

Cibreo (most of their addresses)-  This is (usually) one of the few places I could eat nearly every day and never tire. I will say I don’t recommend their Helvetia Bristol outpost. It’s pricey and I was recently served half a tomato on one plate and a bite of squid on the other for 30eu at lunch for a menu’ item described as a seafood salad. I would stick to their revered classics like the caffe, the trattoria or their Asian-Fusion bar (even though not a fan of their choice to name it Cibleo’). Apart from the luxury hotel restaurant, the food by Cibreo is uniquely special. Address: Via dei Macci, 122r ph: 055 2341100 Closed Sundays and Mondays.

Playful twists on traditional Italian, not necessarily purely traditional Tuscan 

Osteria dell’Enoteca- You guys this is one of the best restaurants in Florence. Where do I start? Everything on the menu here is chef’s kiss. Curated steak menu alongside tasty antipasti and primi like peak season tomato gazpachos, gourmet eggplant parmigiana, fresh af pesto pastas and more. What’s even better than serving great food is graceful service and handpicked wines from their team of sommeliers. You got lucky. ph: 055 228 6018 https://goo.gl/maps/AW45TWHx949zMcvQ9

Ristorante Vivo- (TEMPORARILY CLOSED, leaving this up hoping they re-open by next year’s edit as they deserve a place on the blog) This restaurant specializes in fresh catches and traditional plates from the Maremma (Southern Tuscan coast). Optimal choice for raw fish, oysters if you must, interesting wines from the Maremma and Monte Argentario, and delicious seafood pasta dishes. Good for families and big groups- I must warn there is little atmosphere but it makes up for it in food quality. Address: 9A/B, Largo Pietro Annigoni, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy (Lunch and Dinner) +39 333 182 4183

Martare’ Ristorante- I reviewed this place in the past for The Guardian (full review/list here) and it’s one of these places I wish I went to more. It’s lovingly husband/wife owned, has a colorful, tastefully designed atmosphere and food is made creatively well without pretention. Near the Accademia museum and also near a couple great spots for gelato post dinner! (Ara’ and Carabe!) Via degli Alfani, 93R (IG)

T’Amero- This restaurant is a pasta bar, they make their own pastas from scratch on-site and are located in Piazza Santo Spirito. The menu’ is dominated by funky twists on Italian traditions like pancetta & gamberi dressed potato-filled curlugiones to classic spinach & ricotta ravioli in butter & sage. A plus to eating inside is proper air-con and the tables outside which are perfect also for Aperitivo hour & people watching in the square. Address: Piazza Santo Spirito, 11r 

Culinaria Bistro in Piazza Tasso– Seasonal, farm-to-table small plates, heaps of GF options plus fresh pasta all with a Mediterranean identity. When they first opened, they showcased tagines and their menu continuously evolves. It’s family-owned by people who care about inclusivity, honoring small local producers and making delicious seasonally-inspired food. Address: Address: Piazza Torquato Tasso, 13rosso

Coquinarius- Wine lovers- this restaurant is for you. Here we find an appetizing list of pastas (my favorite being their burrata ravioli in pistachio pesto) but also a break-from-the-industrial ordinary selection of boutique small producer wines hand-picked from one of the best sommeliers in town. For those needing a break from heavy Tuscan fare, they have decent salads and finger food tagliere (charcuterie) boards of interesting artisan cheese & meats. Address: Via delle Oche, 11R (also be sure to check out their scenic 2nd location in Fiesole) ph: 055 2302153 (center) ph: 055 597 8356 (Fiesole)

Ruth’s Vegetarian Kosher- This isn’t a creative spot, but a delicious comfort food destination in Florence’s tiny Jewish quarter. Fresh tabbouleh salads, creamy hummus, some fish dishes, shakshuka, couscous dishes, and more are wonderfully made. (Next to the Synagogue of Florence: Via Luigi Carlo Farini, 2A)

Burro e Acciughe- top notch spot for seafood in the Oltrarno. Everything they do here is magic. I can’t recommend enough. I recently went with my chef boyfriend who was visiting and we thoroughly enjoyed every item ordered. Address: Via dell’Orto, 35/R Try their sister restaurant Il Guscio as well!

A Crudo- In Santo Spirito for fresh carpaccio plates, plant-based, red meat and seafood tartares. Address: Via Mazzetta, 5R

I’Tuscani- A lovely little steakhouse with quaffable wines and super friendly service. (Centro Storico near the train station)

photo credit: Beatrice Mancini

Modern, creative and casual fine dining 

Fusion and Caffe Dell’Oro- for Michelin-quality gourmet dining at respectable prices (think tomato pasta al pomodoro with umami-laden fish egg bottarga, lemon and shrimp risotto. If you’re craving something a little more fresh, check out the sashimi small plates at Fusion off the Arno river near Ponte Vecchio. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Locale Firenze- This spot has it all: ambiance, service, craft cocktails, design, history and exceptional food and drink. Located in a restored & restructured palace whose foundations date back to the 1200’s but eventually changed hands to the Medici family in the Renaissance. You get to dine in a slice of history while being treated to an immersive culinary trip. The current chef is Simone Caponnetto who has a modernist tasting menu’ approach (fermentation geeks, this is your jam) and drinks ardently creative with an obsession for detail. Plus their bar is included in the World’s 50 Best list.  Where else in Florence can you get a shaken and stirred show at the bar, dine in their Medieval era underground dining rooms, provide impeccable service and delightful food? If you value dining experiences as an investment, promise me you’ll snag a table at Locale Firenze. Address: Via delle Seggiole, 12/R (open Ferragosto)

Cestello Ristoclub (their sister restaurant in Piazza di Cestello) will also be open and is also on point for creative crudo platters in a well-heeled club vibe setting. Not for everyone, but if you’re a bon vivant, enjoy an eclectic luxury atmosphere to dress up and eat fancy seafood and craft cocktails-this is your spot. It is sheer decadence. Address: Piazza di Cestello, 8

Essenziale-  They are closing on August 8th citing mass tourism, but I am leaving them up here as the owner chef has announced plans to go elsewhere. Stay tuned on their IG and read my review here. 

Cuculia- In the Oltrarno, this couple-owned restaurant is doing creative fine dining with mostly seasonal produce driven dishes and a global approach in terms of style/cuisine. Address: Via dei Serragli, 3/R Closed Sunday/Mondays.

Non-Sai- This fun little cocktail bar on the “Lungarno” does Ischia-style tapas (think seafood and also rabbit?) with well-studied craft cocktails. If you’re into more traditional aperitivo bites they also have artisanal charcuterie boards in collaboration with Chianti butcher, salumeria and cheesemonger Macelleria Falorni in Greve. Address: Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 43

The Lodge- Open all month only Sunday closing. Read entire review on my IG page:

Or Michelin rated (star/stars or without) restaurants connected to a hotel (these most likely are going to be open) My picks for splurge-worthy Michelin-level restaurants include Gucci Osteria, Degusteria Italiana, Luca’s, Saporium and Atto by Vito Mollica.

When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie….

Cipriano Pizzeria- Located in San Frediano, this is a neighborhood pizzeria with modernist flair, and strangely some (tasty!) sushi-inspired side bite options. Viale Ludovico Ariosto, 1r, 50124 Firenze FI, Italy

Il Vecchio e Il Mare- Probably my favorite pizzeria of the moment but they are closed from August 11-25th. If you happen to be here during these dates you should definitely make a stop. ph: 055 669575 https://goo.gl/maps/k9xytuNWeYqpPT6GA

Pizzeria Giotto in Piazza Santa Maria Novella- This is an adored pizzeria by Florentines and locals who appreciate a good pie, that originally started in Novoli (outside the city center). Now they’ve opened in the center and you’re lucky if you love pizza and can snag a table here. Website Address: P.za di Santa Maria Novella, 24/r

Caffe Italiano- A fixture on the Florentine pizza wall of fame (get it?! 10 points if you get this amazing pun) Caffe Italiano near Santa Croce has revamped its menu to offer (in addition to their pizza mainstays) and Tuscan dishes (steak/pasta fagioli). Address: Via Isola delle Stinche, 11R, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy Phone: +39 055 289080

Arà: è Sicilia- This fast casual Sicilian eatery is perfect when you’re craving minerally wines from Mt. Etna, a plate of pistachio pasta or an arancini and some cannoli. They have a few outposts but the spot in Sant’Ambrogio is my favorite since they have small plates vs the rest which are just street food. Various locations, sit-down eatery: Via degli Alfani, 127

Le Follie di Romualdo- There is a term in Italian “pizzeria dell’autore” which basically means when a pizzeria is modeled after the technique of a particular pizzaiolo. Romualdo Rizzuti is the author of the pizza types served here and he’s earned accolade from Gambero Rosso as Florence’s best. Putting website here because they’ve changed locations about a million times since they’ve opened. https://www.lefolliediromualdo.it/

Another hack: hotel restaurants should be open even on Ferragosto.

Taken at Il Gusto Dim Sum

For international food offerings, try Ararat, Il Gusto Dim Sum, Ramen Girl, Ravioli Wang, Ristorante Tehran (Persian food), Bomo, Kyoto Ramen, or Iyo Iyo (call first)

For more summer-themed eat/drink listicles, bookmark this for Aperitivo, and this for spots near Florence’s major attractions for The Guardian or this guide. Call ahead, as usual!

When you consider wine an essential food group…

Pitti Gola e Cantina- Stunning location in Piazza de’ Pitti, and the mother of Ostera dell’Enoteca is open as well for an exquisite wine bistro dinner situation.

If you’re desperate: Signorvino-  While their wines aren’t as special as the Volpi e L’Uva, I appreciate the selection of regional Italian wines, the river-hovering patio outside overlooking the Ponte Vecchio (if you can snag a table that is) and their kitchen snacks are not all bad- especially if you do not consider this more than a simple eatery with decent food. Plus nice back-up bottle shop for picnics or last min Sunday suppers. Address: Via de’ Bardi, 46R (also near Ponte Vecchio)

I’ve tried calling wine bars and sometimes they are too busy to pick up, so consult this guide for drinking wine in Florence too for more options. I know Enoteca Spontanea, Vineria Sonora (who usually collabs with pop-up outdoor spaces), Le Volpi e L’Uva and Enoteca Bellini has some select days open in August- be sure to call ahead and check out their social media pages for live updates.

Photo Credit: Sam Engel

For beer lovers…

Picking a favorite anything is like picking a favorite child, whether that be a favorite beer pub, restaurant or gelateria. I love all the craft beer pubs in Florence for different reasons. These ones just happen to be open on Ferragosto in Florence:

Alibi- A quality rotating selection of Italian-made and international craft beers. Delicious burgers and bar food, too. Their collection of bottles and cans are exceptional, their burgers and fries (with plant-based options too). Address: Via Faenza, 21/R

The Joshua Tree Pub-  An Italian version of “Cheers” in Florence and the space recently underwent a renovation so it’s nicer than ever. They added more taps and are now more dedicated to serving craft beer, a mix between Italian and international brews. If any of their beer staff geeks are around, you’ll be one of the luckiest beer lovers in town. Beer lovers, stop by during the day if you wanna catch one of the extremely knowledgeable staff pourers. Address: Via della Scala, 37 (near the station)

Move On– This record store doubles as a craft beer and cocktail smack dab in the middle of Piazza del Duomo. They don’t have a huge selection of Italian craft beers, but enough to make it a unique stop for a sip with the best view in town (and tunes to match) Piazza del Duomo (no reservations needed)

Circolo il Rondinella- This is a community center (how do you explain arci/i circoli in English?!) which also does dirt cheap family style trattoria dishes, but while the restaurant section is closed- the old school classic Italian (NO FRILLS) bar is a vibe for a cheap Peroni beer and bag of chips to snack on at aperitivo hour outside along the river Arno. Address: Lungarno Soderini, 2

Looking for craft cocktails? Check my list on CN Traveler for best bars in Florence and call the one you fancy to check if they are open before going. Please bear with me, with the pandemic, there have been closures/etc and I’m a little strapped on time to call/figure out every single one of my past recs on other guides. Forgive me!

A couple convenient food court picks:

Mercato Centrale/Central Market (top floor)- Open everyday and this is like a street food court/hall and communal seating. My picks on the market’s top floor: Rome’s Trapizzino (hand-held pizza squares filled with deliciousness like double panna and anchovies, Roman oxtail or eggplant parmigiana), Il Tartufo for truffle pasta, L’Enoteca by Sandro Soltani for wine and Pizza at Sud. Address: Via dell’Ariento (open every day including Ferragosto)

Outdoor street food & drink spaces & pop-ups: Instabile, Manifattura Tabacchi (it’s out there but worth it if you’re here a while and want to go to San Jacopino), Molo Firenze, the Horticulture Garden (Love Orticoltura), Frida al Piazzale (by the same people as Vineria Sonora), Atollo Firenze. The way it works is get here fairly early if you’d like to dine “al fresco”, snag a table, order food from one of the stands and drinks at the bar. Spots available include arancini from Ara’, snacks from Bulli e Ballene, chianina burgers from La Toraia, fish food truck Pesce Pane for fried fishy frittura mista plus wine and cocktail bars like Rex. Address: varies, look up each name on IG or google maps.

For dessert and when I say dessert I mean gelato- most gelaterie (gelato shops) will be open all of August but the 15th can be tricky. In general, feel free to consult my articles on where to find the best gelato in Florence by clicking here (but these notable faves will be open in August: Perche’ No, ‘Sbrino, Sorbettiera, My Sugar and Gelateria de’ Neri.

When in Rome, eat with the seasons! Here’s a little reminder of summer flavors to respect and take advantage of:

Cold coffee, firstly in the form of a cafe shakerato (cold, shaken espresso served in a fancy martini glass!) All things tomatoes, peppers, zucchini flowers/ fiori di zucca, (mostly fried), panzanella (fresh tomato, cucumber and bread salad), pappa al pomodoro (stewed tomato and bread), black summer truffle, a decent variety of locally caught seafood, friggitelli (mild non-spicy green peppers which you normally fry or pan-fry), all things made with eggplant, figs, watermelon, loads of basil, green radicchio, mint, peaches, nectarines, etc.

For more additional resources: my talented, hardworking friend Georgette of Girl in Florence wrote guide to her picks to where to eat in August for the entire month which notes closure days. Be sure to check it out! It’s definitely helped me in a bind!

Also our pal Sophie Minchilli did this handy post on IG for those headed to/in Rome.  Lot’s of my faves on here!

In your Leo season eating trust,

Curious Appetite

Stay in touch with more up-to-date eating tips on my Instagram & Facebook (search: curiousappetite)

4 Comments on Top Picks for Where to Eat & Drink in Florence in August (including Ferragosto)

  1. GirlinFlorence
    July 12, 2016 at 6:08 am (10 years ago)

    Great post Coral, love your suggestions and I think we need to go back to Il Carduccio! I’m craving one of their yummy salads 🙂

    Reply
  2. Ellen Taylor
    August 4, 2017 at 11:32 pm (9 years ago)

    Cool collection Coral,
    Will visit T’Amero soon to try their Pasta.
    And thanks for your suggestion.

    Reply
  3. Coco Pazzo
    July 28, 2018 at 12:58 pm (8 years ago)

    Does anyone in Florence offer decent PIZZA ROMANA TONDA, the cracker thin pizza that is usually for one person? Very different from Neapolitan pizza.
    Not to be confused with what are also called “Roman style pizzas,” Pizza al taglia (there are lots of examples in Firenze) or Pizza alla Pala or a Metro (also available).

    Reply
  4. Yanka
    August 22, 2018 at 3:12 am (8 years ago)

    I had the privilege to visit Florence a significant number of times. I agree with most of the points you shared.

    Reply

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.