if you are a first time visitor of my blog, I’m an American food & drink writer in Florence since 2012 but have spent considerable time in Bologna between Florence to research and continuously study its cuisine- which fascinates me to no end!

Out of which, a Bologna food tour was born and added to Curious Appetite’s bespoke gamma of small-group, 3 hour tasting tours focused on Florence. I sweat over many bowls of tortellini and slices of mortadella to make it perfect!

If you’re planning a visit, check out this food tour in Bologna (Led by a team of local, certified experts! I wish I could commute there every day to eat pasta and mortadella.) It’s also Lonely Planet-approved! Follow my Instagram page for the most up-to-date food & drink finds, restaurant suggestions, as well as travel tips around Italy. 

(Updated: January 2026 but first written in January 2017- due to limited time, forgive not including links and addresses. Drop me a line if there are significant changes you noticed or a listing I should add!)

I wrote the Eater guide for an Essential 18 (basically a round-up of must-eats, shops and drinks) It’s really hard to do a listicle of only 18 so this blog post fills in the gaps and offers more options for those who like to have them.

Feeling overwhelmed by the plethora of choice? For a to-the-point playbook to my must-do favorites, grab my cheat sheet to where to eat, drink and gelato in Bologna with some agriturismi peppered in.

This is my comprehensive guide to eating & drinking in Bologna (this will be updated when need be- so bookmark it!)

Over the years since 2005 of traveling & living in Italy, I’ve spent significant time in Bologna, la grassa (the fat one), to either visit friends who live there or who have studied at la dotta (the learned, another one of her nicknames).

Overall, I was impressed by the quality of traditional food found in the center compared to my experience in Florence. One may say that you eat better in Modena or Parma (other cities with exceptional foods in the Emilia-Romagna). And it’s not always a given you eat well in Bologna- I’ve had my fair share of mediocre, lackluster affairs!

My lasting impressions are these:

The richness of traditional eateries of Bologna is more palpable than in Florence, period. Partly because the cuisine is made with inherently richer, prized local ingredients.  Consider ragu’ is cooked in butter for crying out loud!

You find butter used in Florence, but it’s more of a novelty rather than something deeply rooted in tradition- after all you find more olive trees in Tuscany than in the Emilia-Romagna!

Not counting the student garbage food dumps in Bologna, the restaurateurs in Bologna are catering to the Bolognese palate- which tends to lean more towards traditional home cooking they grew up on.Florence restauranteurs have a more dynamic target audience that isn’t as much based on being compared to their grandmother’s cooking.

In Florence’s center, I’d say a minimum 50% of the clientele is foreign, without this nostalgic (opinionated) reference for how the food should be tasting unlike those who study/work in the food industry in some way or who were raised with the cuisine.

This is a gross generalization, and could honestly be applied to pretty much anywhere in Italy (i.e. local diners holding traditional restauranteurs to the standards of their family culinary memories)

So I personally think a restauranteur in Florence who is doing traditional fare might simplify knowing a large % of their clientele may either not appreciate wholly genuine/true to the recipe dishes or not know the difference. I’m convinced the majority of restaurants in Florence’s city center pander to international tastes, rather than those of even their own.

Tuscan cuisine you find today is mostly la cucina povera (peasant soups, dishes) and some notes of noble and Etruscan cuisine, pappardelle an example of the Etruscans’ rich tastes.

The cuisine of the Emilia-Romagna seems to be fit for kings with all the prized ingredients which dominate their pantry- the region is home to 42 DOP products! Surely, there is interesting food in Tuscany, and I do find it more varied (especially in terms of vegetables).

Quite honestly, I’d get diabetes living solely on la cucina Bolognese. But I think lasagna Bolognese, tortellini al brodo, mortadella and tagliatelle al ragu’ are unparalleled items for decadent indulgence compared to la cucina contadina Toscana.

Even if Bologna has better restaurant quality food than Florence, it mostly applies to traditional cuisine. They seem even more dinosaur in strength to refuse modernizing their food scene.

You’ll find ONE Michelin-star restaurant in the whole city, Ristorante dei Portici, and it’s at a hotel. You may find a handful of restaurants serving refined versions of Bolognese cuisine, but Florence to me has some diversity in terms of experimentation and multicultural food offerings even if behind most other major cities like Milan and Rome.

At the end of the day, it may seem unfair to compare metropolis cities to Florence, but while small, has similar international appeal and draw. Plus, its the Italian city I have most experience eating in, so naturally I compare!

The only thing I found “modern” in Bologna were irritating bakeries and gimmicky “concept” hipster joints trying to imitate homogenous food trends.

From a day-to-day perspective, I found the Bologna very Bolognese in terms of culinary open mindedness, habits and cultural sensitivity.

Despite the fact that the world comes to Bologna to display art and perform music, it seemed like just any other Italian working city. Florence, aside from its massive American and foreign expat communities, has a notable international/artist scene. Paling in comparison to Rome’s or Milan’s, I’m sure!

Here in Florence there are international institutes, academies and festivals, bringing people from all over the world. Florence is one of the few cities in Italy that is both a picturesque village and somewhat dynamic.

I’d consider Florence way more accustomed to having diverse foreign communities residing there and seems to be culturally sensitive, more than I experienced in Bologna. Perhaps this is changing as now Bologna is getting more attention.

So you probably wanted the food recommendations, right? I’ll stop rambling and give you the goods.

Curious Appetite’s guide to food & drink in Bologna

Picks for Traditional Trattoria and Restaurants in Bologna

Trattoria Via Serra- slow food/very popular and hard to get into; Slow Food–driven ingredients, artisanal approach, huge warmth and hospitality, and a focus on nearly forgotten rural dishes (advance reservations are essential).

Trattoria da Me- shabby chic/thoughtfully sourced ingredients for mostly traditional fare run by talented chef and owner Elisa Rusconi, giving this trattoria mega cred amongst locals. In addition to the original Via San Felice location (with an attached fresh pasta shop) she has opened an upscale second outpost inside the historic Torre Galluzzi at Corte Galluzzi).

Ristorante al Cambio is a surefire time capsule for local favorites from lasagna to passatelli, now under chef Matteo Poggi, who has refreshed the menu with modern technique while respecting tradition; their lasagna was named by the New York Times as one of the best pasta dishes in the world to try.

For a solid traditional pick at chef quality still an easy reach from the center, head to Trattoria Bertozzi run by Chef Fabio Berti (recently updated interiors, including a covered courtyard; same rich, indulgent style. Try the stuffed balanzoni made with red-and-blue sfoglia pasta, a nod to Bologna FC.

For more great traditional food with a vibe, don’t miss Da Serghei (loved their lasagna).
I think Osteria Bottega is reliably solid (even if on every list, I went and saw why. Super high quality and great service, even if slightly pricey!).

Grassilli for one of the best cotolettas in town. My favorite place to recommend to people given the quality of dishes and its very traditional atmosphere and old-timey details.

Collegio di Spagna for simple fare and especially fried bread pillows called crescentine fritte with cured meats and fresh cheese (squacquerone).

Curious to taste some of Bologna’s best traditional foods? Book our La Grassa Food Tour of Bologna led by local expert historical guides and bonafide foodies!

For more traditional, wine bar and a couple modern picks, check out this guide I wrote on Vogue Magazine (online) Head to Bologna for the Ultimate Food Tour in 2017 (like I said, not much changes but the only place I wouldn’t stand by any longer is Franco Rossi- not sure what I was thinking when I listed that one- but hey people grow!)

Refined, creative and fine dining picks 

Caminetto d’Oro (fine dining service, exceptional quality and prices).

Darcy- For one of the best slices of lasagna in Bologna with a contemporary bent.

Casamerlò for bold art decor and extremely well executed traditional dishes, with signature plates inspired by the 1980s, an exuberant wine list, and interiors mixing modern art and fine antiques.

Ahimè is probably the only modern contemporary restaurant trying to do something creative with Bolognese food traditions. In other words, if you’re into trend food scene/places—Ahimè is your ticket (note: Unodiquestigiorni is their newer, more ambitious sibling with refined service and a strong focus on intentionally sourced specialty ingredients and no-waste ethos).

Oltre is also another modern contemporary fixture in the Bolognese dining scene.

Scaccomatto for a little more gourmet “fusion” takes on traditional dishes and flavors, now in a permanent space inside a former monastery, with a magical garden in summer and a contemporary open kitchen in winter.

For fine dining head to Ristorante I Portici, still holding one Michelin star, now under Chef Nicola Annunziata, with expanded offerings including an osteria, a Neapolitan pizzeria, and a pastry shop next door.

For THE best traditional Bolognese fare, albeit a few stone throws from the city center: check Mastrosasso, Bottega Aleotti, and Mirasole (note: Officina del Gusto has closed).

To take a break from all the meat and partake in a great seafood meal dine at Ristorante Acqua Pazza by Chef Carboni.

Ristorante I Carracci for more hotel, luxury-style fine dining, now led by Chef Agostino Schettino, and lastly Aretusi Trattoria by Chef Panichi.

Other contemporary international ideas: Ciao Kebab and Sentaku Ramen

For wine lovers:

You can’t go to Bologna without drinking at Enoteca Faccioli– this is my ultimate favorite wine bar which specializes in high quality minimal intervention (aka natural) wines. Otherwise a couple other choice spots could be Enoteca Favalli (make sure to snack on the stuffed tigelle) and Bocca Buona (wines only, I’m suspicious of the food/haven’t tried yet. 2 others I love: Enoteca Al Risanamento and L’Ortica

I’m sad to say that Lucia Antonelli’s Taverna del Cacciatore has closed. But I still want you to read about it: The best chef-quality Tortellini outside of Bologna

For more outside Bologna: Agriturismo Mastrosasso, La Lumira, Nuova Roma, Locanda Pincelli, Serra Sole (formerly Massimiliano Poggi Cucina, now more approachable with approachable prices and a focus on popular dishes and strong supply-chain sourcing), Ristorante Iacobucci, Bottega Aleotti, La Luna Rossa, Osteria di Medicina, Casa Mazzucchelli, and La Vecchia Scuola.
(NB: Antica Trattoria di Sacerno has closed and relocated to the city center, now operating as Da Sacerno.)

For craft cocktails, Casa Minghetti in Piazza Minghetti (a bit more swank but well-made classics plus food) or head to Nu Lounge Bar. For a sort of dive bar vibe, head to Vanilla (but in a good way) in a student-y part of town off Via Pratello. Ruggine if you want to experience a NYC wanna be retro-hipster spot with lived-in atmosphere and decent bar food. Bar Volare for classic cocktails with a total ’60s vintage vibe and simple bar snacks like boiled eggs and peanuts.

For amaro and the ultimate throwback, stop by Caffe’ Rubik.

Additional strong cocktail picks worth noting include Scuro, I Conoscenti (also for the aesthetics), Jiani’s, Guero, King Cole Club, Donkey, Velluto, AB Corner, and Sentaku Izakaya for Japanese-leaning drinks alongside food.

For gelato, don’t miss Cremeria Santo Stefano my favorite gelato in Bologna for extremely interesting flavors and perfect creaminess/sweet balance, Stefino Bio for fascinating vegan and organic flavors which fool you into contemplating veganism, Gelatauro for classic gelateria vibes and gelato made wholly artisanal with passion and a touch of Southern Italian flavors (the owner from Calabria) and Gallieria 49 if you are obsessed with pistachio and figs like me- they do a pistachio granita that is probably the closest I’ll get to having the real deal in Bronte, Sicily. ALSO, Cremeria Cavour and Sorbetteria Castiglione.

More names for best gelato in Bologna, be sure to bookmark this guide dedicated to gelato in Bologna.

For even MORE gelateria (because I can’t give away all the secrets)- take our Bologna food tour or book a consult.

For coffee, my favorites were Terzi (big emphasis on bean quality, roasting and sourcing), Le Serre at Giardini Margherita and Aroma.

Forno Brisa (especially for a pour-over and fresh breads) and Caffe Zanarini

I do not recommend Allegra- I find whoever is responding to their Google reviews unprofessional and when I tried to go myself, not only was it extremely disorganized with a line out the door- I found it an irritatingly carbon-copy Berlin wanna be hipster.

I do my best to taste as much as possible while in town and gain advice from the right palates, and the subsequent visits which now make Bologna feel like a second base for me.

Stay tuned for a future post for eating food from around the world in and near Bologna 

My favorite local food blog is  Gourmettoria by Marco Salicini. Marco is super passionate, knowledgable, has a great palate and super helpful in helping me stay updated on Bologna’s dining scene. Grazie, Marco!

In your love for la grassa,

Curious Appetite

For more about my time and thoughts on Bologna, visit the Bologna section of my blog: https://thecuriousappetite.com/category/italy/bologna/

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