As a lover of Italian food culture and ritual, the Italian happy hour aperitivo is quite possibly my favorite past-time in Italy. I even lead a food tour in Florence just for Aperitivo. (It’s also been recommended by Lonely Planet and Conde Nast Traveler) This is a handy guide to my on-going recommendations for where to get Aperitivo in Florence as well as articles I’ve written related to aperitivo and cocktails in Florence. (Check back often- this list is a constant work in progress!)
In return for this labor of love, I ask you to make a contribution whether that’s offering me a drink (or aperitivo;) via VenMo or into my tip jar.
Or the very best way to contribute while also tasting the best food in Florence is by booking a food tour or a personalized travel consult with me. If you can’t swing one of my professional services, offering me a coffee for insider Italy travel advice is plenty appreciated.
What is Italian aperitivo? Some compare Aperitivo to happy hour- it is not just one hour and there are not discounted drinks and food. In sum, its the ritual of having a snack and an appetite stimulating drink (negroni, vermouth, spritz, etc) or light alcoholic drink (prosecco, light wine, beer) before the events of a meal are about to ensue.
Over time, this food & drink ritual has evolved to be “aperi-cena/dinner”, big buffets of food with watered down mixed drinks which sweetly stun appetite rather than stimulate. In some ways, aperitivo is loosing the essence of what this ritual was intended to be with the aperitivo bars with cafeteria-like mounds of leftovers and stale food that belongs in a science project.
Why is Aperitivo so important? Aperitivo is an important social activity. There is something electric about the social energy you find in neighborhood bars around Italy at aperitivo time. I value the spend time we have with each other and the importance of forming strong bonds over breaking bread together. I feel that food & drink is one of these social glues which keeps us at the core of the human experience.
I could go on and on about how beautiful culinary rituals are! But what makes aperitivo special is that it is a casual social medium that is less intimate than dinner but still a great way to socialize. With the more we isolate ourselves with technologies and vanity projects, aperitivo is one of those few acts left that retain our social humanity. Perhaps I am being dramatic about this, but I am a romantic at heart.
Where to get Aperitivo in Florence
Let me start by explaining that not all of my suggestions will have the massive “aperitivo” buffet service. This list will focus on quality-minded and local-loved establishments who offer or sell small bites along with drinks. Unless you’re a student or on a tight budget, bite I think its worth the few extra euros for quality.
Yes, you may pay the same or even more for a smaller portion but you’ll be rewarded with drastically improved quality. Thank you for coming to my TedTalk Where to get Aperitivo in Florence?
Let’s start by neighborhood:
SANTA CROCE & SANT’AMBROGIO
Caffe’ Sant’Ambrogio- Stick to the chips and peanuts or charcuterie and revel in the fine candy shop that is their wine list. They have a sneaky good selection of champers (champagne) and are popular for Martinis. This is one of those places where you are here for the locals and the quality of the drinks, and consistent service. The bar itself is dark but they have tables outside. Wear some mosquito spray though during the summer if you’re like me and mosquitos love you. (in piazza sant’ambrogio)
MARIO MARIO MARIO– The listening bar craze has landed also in Florence. At Mario, it’s more old school Italian bar/tobacco coffee stand meets natural wine hole with damn good vinyl with chattering folks with campari sodas that spills out on the sidewalk. Friday nights are key. Via dell’ Agnolo, 75
Il Locale- Mega swanky former Medici palace turned fancy bar and restaurant with big city energy- cocktails are wild, craft and creative and chef prepares snack towers with class during Aperitivo.
Rex- Funky vintage accoutered bar with an eclectic selection of craft cocktails and DJ sets and live music late night. I like the bar snacks you can order to accompany your drink (butter and anchovy mini-toasts mostly) Address: Via Fiesolana, 25r (seasonal)
Caffe Fiorentino (closed!!!!)– This is kind of a dive bar but it is authentic. It may not fit my bill of high quality but it does in what Italy is. This is what an Italian bar is like, especially outside touristic centers of cities like Florence, and is beautifully still stuck in the 80’s. Dirt cheap drinks, salty snacks, games and cozy seating. (This closed and I’m so sad, but leaving it up for nostalgia’s sake)
Quelo- Artsy option for vegan/vegetarians and for those who want a raw pressed juice cocktail to off-set the toxic effects of alcohol. They don’t have an official cocktail list, but just tell them what kind of fruits and flavors you like and they’ll customize.
Fermino- decent wines by the glass, reliable Negronis and little crostini bites priced by the slice. Ideal location, super artsy and full of locals
I know not Sant’Ambrogio but I have Raaro listed below in my “outskirts” section but I think it’s one of the best neighborhood bars in Florence right now, alongside Non Sai (not outskirts, but a couple of my favorites at the moment). Bringing it up in case you miss it. Trust me, go.
SAN NICCOLO’/PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO
Fuoriporta Enoteca- A wine bar restaurant open all day with non-stop hours. Small, thoughtful wine selection and if they have sparkling Durello on the menu- order it instead of prosecco. Nosh with one of their lavish crostone. Address: Via del Monte alle Croci, 10/R
Non Sai- I’ve written about this place a lot on social media- run by a young couple from Ischia so expect island-inspired small plates. Absolutely stunning for bar bites along the river and well-studied drinks. Address: Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 43
VIA TORNABUONI/NEAR THE TRAIN STATION
Procacci- Truffle sandwiches and bubbles. Need I say more? Small shop, come early. Address: Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64r
Manifattura- a true, nostalgic homage to Italian cocktail and drink culture- 100% made in Italy. Vintage bitters, vermouth and amari plus fresh fruit preparations for seasonal fruit and prosecco drinks like bellini. Dry snacks only. Address: Piazza di S. Pancrazio, 1
Enoteca Bellini- I love this wine bar and feels like a Paris wine bar. This enoteca is tended by a wonderful soul named Camilla and is family-run. She has great taste and selects unique wines which are always being switched up, and the snacks she makes are divine too. If you love butter and anchovies- you must go to Enoteca Bellini- best toasts in town. Address: Via della Spada, 52
Vino al Vino- A few doors down from my favorite Forno (Becagli:) on Borgo Ognissanti, this wine shop enoteca is an quiet spot for a wine-focused aperitivo away from the crowds. Pick a flight or a glass from their handpicked selection of artisanal wines, paired with gourmet cheeses (one of the best selections in town) explained by their knowledgeable somms on staff. Bonus points: they pour Ernesto, Florence’s 1st low-abv Negroni by yours truly:)
Santa Cocktail Club– Get a seat at the swanky bar or on the patio and order a craft cocktail or glass and they’ll bring a few thoughtful canapé bites. Gluten-free options, too! A bit on the pricy side, but once in a while drinking classy smack dab in a historical square is worth it. (In piazza santa maria novella)
NEAR THE DUOMO
Fiaschetteria Nuvoli- I’ve had plenty of interesting evenings here with countless crostini (truffle, fegatino, sausage, etc) accompanied by legit glasses of wine both in the small bar area upstairs and the underground cellar/seating area below. Great snack bar for afternoon or evening aperitivo. Very rustic, wood-finished typical Tuscan soulful/local hang-out. Address: Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r
SAN LORENZO/CENTRAL MARKET
Pabo Doble- Where the old Sabor Cubano used to live (RIP:( and is a quality spot for Tiki-style drinks with a couple dry snacks. If you are feeling peckish after but not quite enough for a full dinner outing, grab a stuffed focaccia from Bondi down the street. Address: Via Sant’Antonino, 64R
La Casa del Vino- Lovely small wine bar with rustic wood details, marble countertops and an insanely delicious wine selection, plus small plates or crostini bites. Love the crostini toscani (fegatino chicken liver pate toasts). Feels like Florence in the 80’s with some old world yet stylish soul. Address: Via dell’Ariento, 16r
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA
Gucci Giardino- Batting to get on the 50Best list, and punching above its weight thanks to its head bartender talent.
Rivoire– Said to be one of the original locations (along with Cafe Casoni) where the Negroni was 1st served. You gotta have a Negroni in one of the places where it was first served! Address: Piazza della Repubblica
Enjoying this post? Support my work by booking a food & drink tour in Florence or offering me a drink via VenMo or into my tip jar, or PayPal.
ROOFTOP FANCY
Rooftop bar at 701at Gallery Art Hotel Address: Vicolo dell’Oro, 3
Il Continentale (temp closed)- Just in front of Fusion, this is probably my ultimate favorite rooftop to get aperitivo simply because the drinks don’t suck (most rooftop bars utterly suck at making craft cocktails or anything drinkable but instead bank on their location) and the view is also pretty sweet. Address: Vicolo dell’Oro, 6r
Hotel Lucchesi (Empireo Bar)- The rooftop is spacious with the 2nd best views of the city and has more of a young, casual vibe in comparison to luxury Westin where I felt out of place without a fancy dress. Not a big drinker but coming for the views? they have some no-abv options which I appreciate. Address: Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia, 38
Westin Excelsior’s (new) Cosimo Rooftop Bar- Haven’t been yet- please report if you have:) Piazza Ognissanti, 3
For my full guide to rooftop bars and restaurants in Florence, head to my Travel Tips: https://curiousappetitetravel.com/travel-tips/best-rooftop-bars-restaurants-in-florence
PONTE VECCHIO/OLTRARNO/PITTI
Le Volpi e L’Uva- Lovely wine bar with perfect finger food snacks like melted crostini, wines by the glass and tiny truffle filled panini and other rotating product specialties. Address: Piazza dei Rossi, 1R
Il Santino- Natural wines, or wines from small producers and a complimentary snack to pair. If you are feeling peckish, I suggest you delight in a bottle of bubbles and a mozzarella and ‘nduja crostino with a couple pals. They have incredible farmstead cheeses and meats for a delectable, choice tagliere. Attracts a boho chic aspiring designer crowd, but also has quality wines and food to match its ambiance. They have expanded their space so no longer just a hole in the wall. But people still tend to dwell in the streets. Address: Via di Santo Spirito, 60/R
Pitti Gola Cantina- Smack dab in the square gawking at Palazzo Pitti, this wine bar is for people who take food and wine seriously. Order a snack like pate glazed with a vin santo reduction and pair with a tasting flights selected from their impressive library of wines. Address: Piazza de’ Pitti, 16
Spirituum Spirits Club- Enough with wines, on with the cocktails! A humble nook with a more spacious after-dinner lounge next door serving decent martinis, uncomplicated vintage cocktails and small aperitivo platters you can order from their restaurant next door. Address: Via Sant’Agostino 14R
Mad Souls & Spirits- Super unpretentious bar that feels like a sports bar but with no TV, Mad does everything but Aperol Spritz (thank god). A sensible pick if all you’re looking for is a pre-dinner drink, and not necessarily wanting to be at a scene-y locale. Address: Borgo S. Frediano, 36-38r
Enjoying this post? Support my work by booking a food & drink tour in Florence or offering me a drink via VenMo or into my tip jar, or PayPal.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK (need a taxi/bus/car ride/long walk from the center)
Serafini- They have a buffet I’d actually recommend- I suspect some of it is leftovers from the same-day’s lunch service, but the upside is they are mostly pastry goods they bake on-site, mini-pizza bites and plenty of vegetable options (crudite mostly) to pick from which cannot be ****ed up. They make decent spritz (ask for Campari or Cynar- aperol is a sugary overrated mess) and their wine selection is surprisingly decent. I love Serafini’s coffee scene during the day, too. Address: Via Gioberti, 168/r
Pane Amore e Fantasia- This place is a food lover’s dream come true. It’s totally out of the way and they have a hypnotizing array of snacks, meats from heritage varieties of swine, an euphoric selection of cheeses and a knock-out collection of wines- especially bubbly. The face of Pane Amore e Fantasia is the charming Lorenzo Vulashi who is incredibly personable, patient and knowledgeable. I’m in love with this place and Lorenzo.
This guy provided the wines for that big fat Indian wedding in Florence last November that rang up a 14 MILLION quid bill. This little humble bakery and wine shop has taste and you should go. Via Ponte Alle Mosse 154r Dogana- They have a whole case of gourmet crostini (loads of crushed pistachio, swoon!) and respectable fishy snacks.
Raaro- One of my favorite new openings in Florence. Small plates, bittersweet aperitivoclassics, twists on the Negroni, an entire page or 2 dedicated to no-abv drinks which are actually good? 110% Worth the detour. Piazza Leopoldo Nobili (Le Cure/Campo de’ Marte)
Gastronomia Galanti- Last but not least, the gastronomy deli of Italy’s awarded best sommelier (as I have previously written about here). Why not sip on wines picked by Italy’s award winning sommelier along with foods made in-house in this family-run and operated shop? Address: Piazza della Libertà, 31/red
For more resources on Aperitivo in Florence, check out these articles I have written either already on the blog, contributed to or for other online magazines:
CN Traveler review of Curious Appetite’s Aperitivo Tour
Tickets/info for our small group Aperitivo food tour in Florence
Aperitivo in Florence- a round up via this blog Aperitivo Time in Florence- basics and tips
Why Aperitivo Still Matters via Girl in Florence
Ideas for Aperitivo foods to make at home via this blog
Where to get cocktails in Florence via Eater.com
Florence’s Cocktail Renaissance via Eater.com
Stay tuned to this page and my social channels (@curiousappetite on Facebook, instagram, TikTok and Threads) for live updates for all things food, drink and aperitivo!
In your Aperitivo trust, Curious Appetite